Sv: Skiftet til sommerdekk?

[Ciumpalac]

I got my EV lite in the mail. I checked for diagnostic codes, they came as
D4 (ECU parameter fail), and
Q0 (Insulation fault).

The code D4 could be what Elmo referred to as problem with speeder resistance, which requires new parameters to be uploaded.
The code Q0 is understandable, since the orange light for electronic fail always lights up when I turn the key.

So is it worth getting the Lexia 3? can they upload new parameters to the ECU?

[Elmo]

So is it worth getting the Lexia 3? can they upload new parameters to the ECU?

YES.

[Ciumpalac]

To solve the code Q0 Should I take a motorwash, and change the gear oil?

Ta motoren ut, og høytrykkspyl den. Bytt samtidig lager, tettning til girkassen, og giroljen.

Jobben er relativ enkel, og gjennomførbar for fingernemme entusiaster.

La den tørke, og lakker viklingene med isolerende lakk.

How to get hold of bearings (lager), and sealant (tettning) for the gear box?
And "isolerende lakk"...are they available from Biltema or Jula?

I have checked the connectons in the 3er battery box, they are fine. Since all the batteries have been shifted by the previous owner some 10 months ago, he would have changed the components if they were rusty anyway. So that leaves parameter error in the Sagem computer, and isolation fault in the motor as the source of my problem. I tried to check inside the Sagem box for burned condensers, removed all the screws (some 15 of them) but the top of the box would not come off. Are there some other screws hidden away maybe, or du I just need more force?

[Elmo]

I tried to check inside the Sagem box for burned condensers, removed all the screws (some 15 of them) but the top of the box would not come off. Are there some other screws hidden away maybe, or du I just need more force?

Do NOT use force! 
If it is completely stuck you have missed a screw or two. If it is kind of loose/free but not coming off, then the reason is some thin metal-connections inside the top that "hangs" around the six big screws for the powercords. When you remove the black plastic-cover on the top you can fairly easy see the problem.

[Ciumpalac]

The car has started again. The problem turned out to be caused by a defect sensor on the gas pedal sending faulty parameters, and I can get a new sensor from Åsane Auto. I got help to reprogramme the computer, and the car started.

However I have some worrying issues on my hand:
1. In the past month the car had stood still, and batteries have discharged naturally from approx 95% down to 25%. When I set the car to charge today it only charged to about 60% then the charging stopped.
2.Gear oil is leaking. I do not see puddles under the car, but the area under the motor cover is "sweating"

Would it do damage to drive to Åsane (distance approx. 20km) with a faulty accelerator sensor, and is it easy to change the sensor? Moreover what should I do about the leaking gear oil? I tried top up the oil, but the two bolts for emptying and refilling are not like the ones I have seen before - the holes are square and none of my tools fit. Has anybody else had this problem, and any recommendations to stop the leak? It seems to be coming from the bottom bolt if that helps.

[OleV]

Hi!
Oliepropnøgle, Biltema 191175 - or make your own square key.
The oil leak - you have to disassemble the motor and change the sealants, they are common industry standards and should be obtainable at spare parts firms for agriculture or industry.
We have found some via internet for "Berlingo" -from Balticum! and most of them fits ok Saxo.
So no quick fix. But change the acellerator and wait for better wether and a good workspace-and perhaps som help- or a skilled EV-mechanics and pay the bill.
Best regards
OleV

[Ciumpalac]

The oil leak - you have to disassemble the motor and change the sealants, they are common industry standards and should be obtainable at spare parts firms for agriculture or industry.

Hi, thanks OleV for the info. The biltema nøkkel I will definately check it out. The oil leak seems to be coming from the lower bolt (the one used for emptying old gear oil) and that place only. Perhaps it is just to change the ring to stop it leaking? I don't think its necessary to change all the sealants in my case, or maybe just to tighten the bolt is enough. Is it ok to use mineral gearoil 80W90 from biltema?

[Elmo]

The car has started again. The problem turned out to be caused by a defect sensor on the gas pedal sending faulty parameters, and I can get a new sensor from Åsane Auto. I got help to reprogramme the computer, and the car started.

Sensor? I think they replace the whole pedal, and it does not necesserily help you. If they actually replace only a sensor I'd like to have a picture of it and info about where it is.
As far as I know, replacing the pedal on cars that have this problem does not change anything. They just need new parameters loaded now and then (even with new pedal).

1. In the past month the car had stood still, and batteries have discharged naturally from approx 95% down to 25%. When I set the car to charge today it only charged to about 60% then the charging stopped.

I would think it is only the SOC meter that shows wrong. That happens from time to time, eg. when loading new parameters it may happen. Drive down to 30% and chage again, I assume you then willl get to 80% and after some more chargecycles it wil be back to normal.

Would it do damage to drive to Åsane (distance approx. 20km) with a faulty accelerator sensor, and is it easy to change the sensor?

In reference to what I wrote above, I think you can drive a long time without problems.

Is it ok to use mineral gearoil 80W90 from biltema?

Yes. It should read API GL-5, so Biltema 36-978 should be right.
If you dont have spill under the car you just need to tot up, bur you might ofcourse emty first to se how much is missing, if any.

[Pera L]

Hi! You can get only potentiometer with 3-wire, about 20cm, ended for connector. Price is here some 80-100e and delivery time some 3 days. There was one faulty here, of course in my own car! Symptoms are that car starts only sometimes, if you rise the pedal then sometimes easier. After putting new program with Lexia3 it works short while and again, problems. Manufacturer is in England, cannot remember brand just now. 5 kohms where 1 to 4kohms used. 1kohm for "idle", 4kohm to full "gas". Easy to check out continuity with ohmmeter.

And I totally agree with Elmo; Lexia3 is good. Maybe Proxia3 better but almost impossible to get.

Best regards
Pera L
Helsinki, Finland

[elektrolux]

The ecu is looking for a preprogrammed voltage from accelerator to enable start. If sensor is worn, simply turn it sligtly on its fittings and reprogram ecu. Next time, and every time next the voltage will be the same and car will always start.

Regarding leaking oil plug, Do not tighten up more. This has a spesial Renault type copper/tekstile seal, that is not reusable. Change this and leak should go away.

Regarding internal seals, we have very bad experience with non original seals. They often leak. For the 5-6 euro extra price save yourself 2 hrs work taking the motor out and in again due to a leaking seal.

[Ciumpalac]

Hi! You can get only potentiometer with 3-wire, about 20cm, ended for connector.

Thanks Pera L, so basically what they mean by "sensor" is actually the potentiometer?

Symptoms are that car starts only sometimes, if you rise the pedal then sometimes easier.

The symptom you described fits. Some months ago, the car went through a fase where I had to lift up the gas pedal with my foot every time I wanted to start it. But after a week or so, the problem disappeared and the car started normally...until one day it refused to start no matter what.  I got a guy to load new parameters with Proxia and now the car is starting. I spent days and weeks trying to figure out the problem, and all it took was 15 minus with Proxia to get things right.

Is Lexia 3 enough to do the same thing as Proxia? (Is it the same as reprogramming the CPU? sorry stupid question)

And elektrolux's idea of turning the sensor on its fittings sounds like its worth a try. But then again I have to wait to do that until I get Lexia3.

I asked for a new seal from Åsane auto. Hopefully that would solve the leakage problem. Until then I take Elmo's advice and just keep topping up once in a while.

Thanks all, for the help!

[Pera L]

Heps! Yes, sensor is basicly same kind of potentiometer used many different fossil cars. Mechanically it is hard to find suitable alternative for this, no easy fits. Continuity is important to check with multimeter. If it's good and no breaks then Electrolux suggestion is good. In my case the potentiometer was end of it's life.

Lexia can do almost same things than Proxia. Littlebit more on some things, littlebit less some things. Both are very good ones and worth of money and can do reprogramming. After programming remember to put car in charge even 2 minutes. Then gas pedal position resetting take it's place.

Electrolux is more than right conserning the seals. It's very frustrating to do a big job again after while because of few kr. You have better life if doing job perfectly at first time. Just my opinion.
I have put some 4-4,5dl oil in Berlingo/Partners. It's enough to good circulating. Leaking is smaller then. Wintertime I use Mobil ATF 320 and summer normal 75W90. Because reduction system not getting hot in any case the colder point is more important. Because amount of oil is so small it is not a case of costs to change them autumn and springtime.

Best regards
Pera L

[Elmo]

Hi! You can get only potentiometer with 3-wire, about 20cm, ended for connector.

OK, I see. You are talking about the pot-meter on the pedal itself.
That's what I referred to at the whole pedal (I did not mean the metal ect, so just imprecise way of expressing myself )

[Ciumpalac]

Continuity is important to check with multimeter. If it's good and no breaks then Electrolux suggestion is good. In my case the potentiometer was end of it's life.

How do you check for "continuity" of the gas pedal? Do I press down on the gas pedal and keep it in a steady position to measure currents? Last night I had bit of a frighting experience when I pushed down on the gas pedal to pull into a busy intersection (with 60kph limit) and to my horror the car hardly responded...it was almost like stalling in a manual car. But soon afterwards the power came back and the car was driving just fine. So definately a problem with the potentiometer, but what is the typical lifetime of gas pedals in PSA cars?

[Pera L]

Very easy checkout; take the gas pedal out, connect multimeter (ohm metering) wires to center and side pole of the potentiometer, turn pot slowly and be sure that multimeter reads ohms all the time out of any drops and suddenly changes. Do the test several times. If you connect multimeter wires for connector you can see also if the wires are broken by bending them different places.
With Lexia you can see voltage and a same thing; is it changes peaceful or scrambling. Voltage varies about 1 to 4 volts when potentiometer is connected to the pedal and a car. But continuity is important.

Potentiometers does not broken very often. I have done repairs for some over 30 different PSA e-cars now period of about five years and just one case so far. Hmm... in my own car! Price for pot was here about 80-100e, not very expensive but not cheap either. I have not check Citroen list prices for Europe. I can get part number later if you needed.

Best regards
Pera L