Sv: Hva er riktig lading og batteripleie av Zebrabatteriet i 2013?

[Goodrun]

Saxoen stoppet under manøvrering. Tror jeg la inn reversen, da kom det et bittelite poff, og det luktet svakt svidd. Etter det er det ikke mulig å koble inn motor. Kontaktor kobler ut middelbart. Lampa for "Elektrisk Feil" lyser, alt 12V er OK, men bilen tar ikke lading lengre.
Noen ide om hva jeg skal se etter?

[torle]

Sjekk over alle sikringer på batterikassene, eventuelet så kan der være en avbrent/korrodert strømskinne ref Electrolux sin Berlingo, mål når sikringer er ute at der er spenning fra alle kassene.

[elektrolux]

Er redd dette er mye verre. Nemlig blåst IGBT som følge av kortsluttning i motor.

[Elmo]

Er redd dette er mye verre. Nemlig blåst IGBT som følge av kortsluttning i motor.

Jeg tror nok også det, men da pleier vel lading å fungere normalt ??

[Goodrun]

Hva slag IGBT er det i kontrolleren? Kan jo være greit å ha som reservedel ansett
Har nappet av shunten i motorrommet, skal sette den inn igjen og sjekke for 120V i koblingsboksen i motorrommet, det er vel det enkleste for å sjekke sikringene til batteribankene.

[Elmo]

Hva slag IGBT er det i kontrolleren? Kan jo være greit å ha som reservedel ansett

Motorstyringen sitter i bunnen av elektronikkboksen og i praksis er det enklere å bytte hele boksen enn den alene. Alle andre komponenter i elektronikkboksen er enkle(re) å ta ut. Les mere og se bilder her 

Har nappet av shunten i motorrommet, skal sette den inn igjen og sjekke for 120V i koblingsboksen i motorrommet, det er vel det enkleste for å sjekke sikringene til batteribankene.

Ja (http://www.elbil.no/wiki/Fil:Computer-tilkoblinger.jpg), men pass på at du ikke kortslutter

[Goodrun]

Har fått liv i ladinga igjen, var utladet 12V batteri. Så nå når ladinga fungerer er vel  sannsynlig at det "bare" er motorstyringa som har tatt kvelden?

[Pera L]

Hi! You mentioned smell. So I suggest that you remove fuses, take out smaller aluminium lid top of the controller box and loose thin red and blue wires from there. Then measure resistance between those wires, must be some 10ohms. If it's ok then resistance from blue wire to chassis and red wire to chassis. Must be over 100kohm if motor is somehow ok.
If resistance between blue and red wire shows open circuit or lower than 8ohms or between blue and chassis lower than, let say, 10kohm you can start hunting another motor. Blue and red are field wires for motor. It means also that the controller field current feeding is broken and need to repair. Remember change the relays also just in case. But you have excellent elbil repairshops in Norway, in Forneby just for example. I had opportunity to follow their working year ago and I liked very much straight back and honesty in their work and action. Sure that Electrolux have the same mentality. And Bugge A.

Hope that I'm wrong in this fault prediction...

Regards
Pera L
Finland

[Goodrun]

Yeah there was a brief smell of something burnt. Thanks for the info regarding checking the motor and its insulation. I'll do those tests before going deeper into the electronics. I'll try do all this by myself as towing the vehicle for miles to get other people do the repairs is no option as I'm on a fairly low budget.

[saxo56]

Hej!
Eftersom jag har köpt en saxo -97 som renoveringsobjekt och håller jag på att leta efter vad som är fel på bilen, så tänkte jag kolla motorn som Pera L föreslog.
Jag kollade motståndet mellan den blå och röda kabeln till fältlindningen och fann att det var 5,7 ohm.
Jag testade också mellan ledning och jord och det var över 100 kohm.
Jag har också provkört motorn på 12 v och då gick den fint.
Då motståndet i fältlindningen är under 8 ohm, bör jag då ta ut motorn och göra en motortvätt?

[Pera L]

Hi Saxo56! I think your motor is ok. Resistance of the field winding varies following the temperature. About 8-9ohms at +20C is ok.
Reading from winding to chassis is near of lower limit and maybe is good idea to blow coal dust and dirt out with a good pressurized air. After that you can be happy if resistance has growing up. Yellow light comes up about 50kohm. There can be also some other leaks like from battery poles to the chassis at wet weather.

Best regards
Pera L
Finland

[Goodrun]

Most common multimeters accuracy below 10 Ohm is poor, connections needs to be very good. You are best off using a low ohm resistance meter unless you are just looking for a indication. For the field/anchor windings a DMM is capable of indicate open circuits at best.

Measuring the insulation with an ordinary multimeter is a bad idea, unless still looking for an indication. Readings does not tell how the insulation behaves when subjected to the working voltages. To make good measurements you will need a megaohmmeter with a measurement voltage of 500 V or more. High voltage testing of 110/120 ACV appliances is actually done with a test voltage of 1200V. This is to make sure that the insulation is good enough. 

[Elmo]

I totally agree with you Goodrun, but the fact that his motor runs fine on 12V should indicate the it is OK.

[Pera L]

Hi all! Littlebit busy with e-cars again.
Normal multimeter can measure field winding resistance as it's variate between 8-11ohms depending temperature. An oldfashion way to check out leaks is to take elmotor cables off and then put some 10W 230V bulb series with net electric between winding and motor chassis. If bulb glowing there is a leak. Effective voltage is then 230V but peak is 400V.
Must remember that even 230V is quite small voltage but some people are more sensitive than others.

regards
Pera L
Finland