Sv: Bærekuler på ny-TH!NK

[Poppe]

When I took down the relay box from under the ip I was quite surpriced  I could install the DTRL (day time running lights) for the front but not for the rear. The reason being that there where no Cables going to the relay holder.
Since I pass one tunnel on my way to work every day I need to turn the lights on manually even though I have the DTRL (front). Sometimes I forget the lights on during work and it does not seem to matter very much since the car goes down to Park lights when ignition is off but there is still a hassle to remember to turn the lights on when going in to the tunnel and to turn them off when leaving.

By following the description below you will have automatic lights when actually needed, i.e. when the car goes into a dark tunnel or similar. You will also have the dimmed position of the P-R-N-D-E lights and you will not have instrument lights as a reminder that the light is not really on.
This feature is seen on all (?) new cars in the EU and is supposed to give a better contrast for the brake lights if the rear lights are not always on. Can't say I was very fond of it when it started to show up here in Sweden where we have had mandatory driving lights front and rear since the late 70'ies but I am getting used to it.

I bought this: DC12V Automatic Headlight Light Control Sensor Car Light Modified Adjustable; http://www.ebay.com/itm/160986663398?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
for $9.95 including shipping. This unit will give you a light controlled switch with adjustable level setting, and a delay controll.
You could of course build the unit yourself but I doubt you can build it under the price you pay at eBay.

Here is the installation description :

Remove the bezel around the instrument, one screw in front of the igition key.

Unscrew the Three screws holding the light switch. start with the two red ones, then unscrew the blue once that will able you to bend down the bottom of the ip to better access the screw marked with green. It's a bit tight there.


Take out the light switch and unplug the connector. The cable is a little short but you can pull out another few cm's. Identify the Black, the Green/White and the Orange/Blue Cables. There is also an Orange/Black Cable, don't confuse them.


The Black is ground and goes to the minus of the board.
Green/White comes from the ignition and shall be used so that the lights goes on only when ignition is on. This one goes to the plus of the board.
Orange/Blue connects to the output of the board and goes to the park lights.

The easiest way to get rid of the Cable of the light sensor is just to push it under the bezel of the center consol.


After the entire cable has been pushed under you can pull it gently to minimize the lenght sticking out in the front and it will end up looking like this, barely visible and in a very fixed position :


Then all you have to do is to set the light level and the delay time.
I think a common time for cars is a delay of about 5 seconds.
I found that going to a parking garage is a good way to set the light level. There you can, if not a too busy garage go in and out as you please.

Good Luck !

[Hafting]

I had the same problem. Adding a relay for front DTRL worked, but no rear DTRL. So I connected a diode from the DTRL wire to the parking light wire. (rear lights and parking lights is the same circuit.)

With this, I get rear lights too with DTRL. A diode works only one way, so the parking lights will not turn on DTRL.

[Poppe]

I have come to realise now that the mornings are getting darker that having the darkness sensor pointing up is maybe not such a good idea. The rear lights are going on and then off at every bridge I drive under, probably confusing the drivers behind.
I will make some tests to point the sensor forwards instead.

[hma]

@Poppe:
What is your experiences with the light controlled DRL so far?
Is the positioning of the sensor working well?
What is the size of your control module?

Do you have any thoughts about this module:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Stable-car-headlights-Automatic-lights-LED-light-control-circuit-module-/171069116802?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d4839182
(its size is 56.5x29.5x18.5mm)

[Poppe]

I think it works quite well.
I made an adjustment of the sensor so it is now pointing forwards instead of up. This reduces the number of "false trigging" while driving under bridges etc. There still are some false ones but I don't know how to get rid of all. Also when there is heavy clouds (darker) you have to switch the lights on manually not to confuse the cars behind you with always switching on/off.

What could be better is that I would like a delay after the DRL switches off. As it is now the DRL often switch off while still in the tunnel (at the end) because it sees the light in front. Not a big problem though.

The size of my contorl module is approximatly the same as the one you link to which seem to be quite like mine but without the delay. This means you will have very rapid switches on/off while driving under bridges while I have a delay so it stays on for 5-6 seconds. I think this is better than rapid switching.

[hma]

Thank you Poppe,

Also found this system called "Light/On&Off", but it's more expensive and I'm not sure if it's as flexible as your board.
http://www.smileyouaredriving.com/uk_en-products-driving-assistance.innovative-solution-7.html
So, I think I will go for the same solution as you.

Have you found a plastic case/box that fits?

Your board measure 63x49mm (height is unknown) and it has 32x41mm between the mounting holes.

[Poppe]

I looked at the link and think it has at least one advantage over mine and that is the different trigger levels for on/off. I get the feeling this module is way over the $10 I paid.

The height of mine is determined by the blue relay, I estimate it to around 22mm.

No box so far only provisional protection for short circuit by plastic bag/tape.