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[BauDemo]

So I thought that the heater on my Gen1 was broken... I did not check if it was the boiler or the fuse. I kept driving...
... and one day I was testing the new nikometer and needed change in current consumption... and activated the fan, which in its turn activated the heater... and I noticed a 4.3kW draw, and shortly after there was warm air in the car!
I managed to make this work couple of times, but the next day the heating was not working again. Instead of the 4.3kW draw for some time, there was a power spike of approx 7kW and then nothing.
Here is a video of the spike.


I tried to debug the problem - unplugged the 12 connector on the boiler and all looked good there. 
I read here on the forum that one can just unplug the highvoltage cable to the boiler and plug it in the AC outlet of the PCU. So I unplug the highvoltage cable, and notice that the boiler outlet has pins 2 and 3 populated, while the AC outlet has pins 1 and 3 populated...
So how is this switching of the connector to the AC outlet supposed to work?
I am attaching photos of the connectors.

Obviously the famous fuse in the boiler has not blown - otherwise I would not be getting any heat. And the fuse in the PCU must be intact.
Could it be a temperature sensor that is not functioning properly?

Any idea other ideas?

[EXCEL]

Hi,

I have recently open my broken heater. After some troubleshooting I discovered a intermittent contact on the temperature sensor situated inside the boiler. After soldering one of two wires, the heater is working perfectly.

It seams that the electronics controlling the heater detect the "open" sensor and turns the power off.

The heater is not yet been put back together. The sensor was "molded" inside a copper tube and I had to split it to get to the sensor.......

[BauDemo]

Great info!
Any photos?

[EXCEL]

I will try to produce some documentation 

[Karus]

Great information. The heater in my Think 2010 with PCU/2 is also broken. I have not checked it yet - is it the fuse inside PCU or the heater itself. I have heard that the heaters in the last models have a bad design, and can produce high voltage peaks which will kill the fuse in the PCU. To be sure, I need to check my Think.

[Arnie]

I suppose you have seen hma's description of heater testing:

Man kan sjekke om en varmekolbe virker ved 1. Bruke diodetester på HV-kontakten, med pluss mot minus og minus mot pluss. Man skal da få 0,4V. Når man snur polaritet skal det ikke være gjennomgang. 2. Bruke megger mellom jordings-kontakten (sort) og hver av HV-tilkoblingene pluss (rød) og minus (sort).

This is described here:
http://www.elbil.no/wiki/Ny-Think:Problemer#Varmeapparatet_slutter_.C3.A5_virke

See also:

http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php/topic,3773.msg62833.html#msg62833