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[BauDemo]

My 12V battery is on its way to heaven...
So I am looking for a new one.
Which one is the original -
Yuasa NP24-12I
Yuasa NP24-12R

Any alternatives?
I need an accurate article number so I don't get a nasty surprise if I order one from ebay...

And some photos to add to the confusion.

[hens]

The original 12 v battery :Yuasa NP24-12I
This is very expensive- why not buy Biltema 80-2301eller 2302 with 30 Ah til kr. 449:-
It is a litte higher -185 mm- so you need to change the bolts. Fix it flush with the front of the crossbeam

[BauDemo]

Thanks for the suggestion!

Biltema shows the following sizes for these batteries:
802301 - 205 x 132 x 185
802302 - 205 x 132 x 185

While the NP24-12I is 166x175x125

I missing something - can you please elaborate how 802301 fits in the place of the original battery? Did you change the holding bracket?
Do you have a photo of it mounted in the Think?

Edit:
Maybe something like this: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Bil-el/Batteribygel/

There is a NP24-12I on ebay.de for 66EUR + shipping - http://cgi.ebay.de/Yuasa-Blei-Gel-Akku-NP24-12-I-12V-24Ah-VdS-Zul-/380239252377?cmd=ViewItem&pt=DE_Computer_Peripherie_Netzwerk&hash=item5888068b99

[El rayo]

Elbilwiki says:
"12V batteri

    * Yuasa NP 24-12 24Ah (originalutstyr i Think), selges av Olsen Batterier i Trondheim
    * Powerfit S312/26 G5. AGM dry (*)
    * Ritar RA 12260. Riktig mål og poler er som original. Sangvik Service, Kristiansand. Eneimportør tror jeg. Holdbarhet ukjent.
    * EG 26/12. Riktig mål og OK kvalitet.BilXtra.

(*) Loddrette polsko. Hullene må files litt for å få plass til kabelskoene, men det er et lite problem "

[BauDemo]

Elbilwiki says:
"12V batteri

    * Yuasa NP 24-12 24Ah (originalutstyr i Think), selges av Olsen Batterier i Trondheim
    * Powerfit S312/26 G5. AGM dry (*)
    * Ritar RA 12260. Riktig mål og poler er som original. Sangvik Service, Kristiansand. Eneimportør tror jeg. Holdbarhet ukjent.
    * EG 26/12. Riktig mål og OK kvalitet.BilXtra.

(*) Loddrette polsko. Hullene må files litt for å få plass til kabelskoene, men det er et lite problem "

Thanks El rayo - the wiki was the first place I looked at, but as you can see there are at least 3 different versions of the Yuasa...

[BauDemo]

I found the photos now...
http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php?topic=2288.msg18204#msg18204
Somehow I had missed them before.
Biltema here I come.

[Ken]

I can confirm that the 24-12I is correct.

If you can find a supplier or RITAR batteries then the right one is RT 12260H. Should be cheap and is the the correct dimensions.

[BauDemo]

As suggested earlier in this thread I changed the battery.
Some photos of the result.
The old battery minus pole had disintegrated - it just broke off like a thick paper.

The problems I have with the new solution:
- I could not use the old under pan, and I would like to have one. I have seen what a small spill can do to the stuff under it if there is no protection. So I will try to find something and redo the job.
- The only think keeping the battery from moving back and forward is the pressure from the top bracket. Although I doubt that this is really a problem,  I would like to have something that would limit the amount of possible movement back and forward. I will try to fix this too when I add the pan.

Any suggestions, comments?

I had to change the screws for the pole terminals - I used m4, but m5 would have been better. I cleaned all and then after screwing the new ones, I sprayed them with Vaseline spray.

Electrically it works - my old battery went immediately to 12.6V after a drive. This one is holding above 13.0V...

[El rayo]

Look like you've experienced a "boiling" cell there, Nikolay!

What I don't understand is why you use a battery with different dimensions. While it solves the problem of a defective battery, it creates some new problems with the installation.

The Powerfit S312/26 G5 battery (at NOK 586.50) that I bought last time fits the original installation hardware. It's the AGM type which does not exhale etching fumes or liquid. The ring connectors for the positive and negative poles must be replaced because the fitting screws are 5 mm. These parts should be replaced after 10 years anyway, I think.

The original Yuasa battery is a type suited for float operation. That's a good choice as long as the car is in drive or charge mode all the time. However normal use leaves my Th!nk just sitting for relatively long periods, so that the 12V battery is discharged to 12.2V before the DC/DC converter kicks in. So for my use a battery for cyclic use is better suited.

[BauDemo]

Well... I am always for the original and stuff or better... but after spending 4 hours driving around to different battery companies and getting prices from 900SEK to 1600SEK for a battery, and having to wait 5 weeks... And the worst was every time I come to a battery shop, I ask for such battery, they ask me what I need it for, I say that I need it for my car, and then we engage in a 15 min predetermined dialog in which the other person is trying to convince me that I am buying the wrong battery.
So I got all tired, went to biltema and for 449sek (for the battery) I "solved" the problem of the DC/DC running constantly.

[elektrolux]

Nytt batteri eller ikke. Foreslår permanent installering av en liten vedlikeholdslader. Se: http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php?topic=1574.0

Siste installasjon på foreldrenes Think ble å montere 114V uttak på kontaktorboksen, og så plugge Ctek rett inn der, og med ledning fram til 12V batteriet.

Enda enklere er å lokalisere 12V på selve kontaktorboksen og koble alt til inne i serviceluken.

[El rayo]

Enda enklere er å lokalisere 12V på selve kontaktorboksen og koble alt til inne i serviceluken.

Ledningene og pluggene mellom 12V batteri og kontaktorboks er vel bare beregnet på styrestrøm til releer, ikke lading.

[elektrolux]

Ledningene og pluggene mellom 12V batteri og kontaktorboks er vel bare beregnet på styrestrøm til releer, ikke lading.

Antakelig ja. Har ikke studert de nyeste skjemaene over kontaktorboksen enda.

Hadde der vært en direkte forbindelse til 12V + er det ikke mye strøm som skal til for å holde 12V batteriet toppet opp.

[El rayo]

Ledningene og pluggene mellom 12V batteri og kontaktorboks er vel bare beregnet på styrestrøm til releer, ikke lading.

Antakelig ja. Har ikke studert de nyeste skjemaene over kontaktorboksen enda.

Hadde der vært en direkte forbindelse til 12V + er det ikke mye strøm som skal til for å holde 12V batteriet toppet opp.

Det er korrekt, men det bør dimensjoneres etter maks av det laderen klarer å levere for å være trygt i lengden, f.eks. hvis en celle i 12V batteriet kortslutter.