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Sv: Når får vi bilene våre ?

Startet av Citrus, tirsdag 17. desember 2013, klokken 10:43

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elektrolux

Sitat fra: Citrus på søndag 22. desember 2013, klokken 21:37
For Elektrolux,

It would be interesting to know if the failures are caused by a blown fuse in the PCU or if the heater itself is defective. You are not into giving the Calix heater a try? It would be my first option since it requires less adaptation in the car (yes I prefer to be lazy).

Please keep us updated about the root cause of these failures.

My fathers heater is now very erratic heating sometimes and most times not. even if there is air free fluid. To check for alternative faults i hooked up a 12V 3W bulm to the 12V signal to heater. The signal that turns the heater on. Interestingly the heater seams to be switched on and of again in like 4-10 sec intervalls. I do not belive this is intended, and would expect the heater to be able to run continuesly if a continues 12V signal is present. Maybe its the bulb that is making the signal do this thing, but the heater was working as expected taken the 12V signal into consideration.

Need to look closer at what exactly is driving the 12V signal to heater. Maybe there is a thermostat circuit that is playing up?   
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Go-carter

Suppose there is. Afaik, the 12V-signal to the heater comes from a combination of fan, temp-gauge, and temp-sensor. They all have to agree, to turn it on  ;)
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Citrus

First of all I would ensure that the grounding of the heater is ok. If that is the case it might be that the 3 Watt bulb is a too high load (e.g. the fault signal from the heater has a max load of 5 mA (0.006 Watt)). Therefore it is worth to repeat the exercise with (best an analogue) Voltmeter. If the Voltage remain intermittent then I would suggest to remove the low voltage plug from the heater and measure again (in the plug). In case voltage still fluctuates likely the parts as described by Go-carter are to blame (or the grounding of one of these parts). If the voltage is stable with the heater disconnected it is more likely that the heater is to blame. In that case it is worth to put an ampere meter in series to check if the current increases or decreases when the voltage drops. Other idea is to take voltage directly from the 12 V battery in series with a bulb of say 40 Watt (to avoid short circuits) then an Ampere meter and then to the 12 Volt signal pin from the heater and a direct lead from ground pin to the negative pole of the 12 V battery (ensure the heater pump is running). Check if the current and the voltage at the signal pin of the heater remains stable. Now the heater should work at full capacity, only limited by the internal thermostat keeping the water at around 85? degrees Celsius.

Mhp

Hei

Jeg har bestilt et par ekstra av disse ventilene med slangekoblinger. Send meg gjerne en PM hvis det noen som trenger
SKI:
- Think 2010 Zebra - Gen 1
- Think 2010 Lithium - Gen2

BauDemo

Sitat fra: Mhp på tirsdag 07. januar 2014, klokken 14:53
Hei

Jeg har bestilt et par ekstra av disse ventilene med slangekoblinger. Send meg gjerne en PM hvis det noen som trenger
Which shop did you order from? Did you have any problems with the shipping to Norway?
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Mhp

Hi

I got the bleeder from this place: http://www.groene-energiewinkel.nl/68030010--messing-sok-15-15-mm-met-aftapkraan.html

It was no problem shipping to Norway, although it was quite expensive.

Getting the hose connector was more difficult, I ended up ordering them from a local plumbing store. 
SKI:
- Think 2010 Zebra - Gen 1
- Think 2010 Lithium - Gen2

Astepsy


Astepsy

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