My son has been driving the Think for the last year or so. On thursday when he came home he parked it not so good so when I was going to move it just a bit some houres later it refused to start and the power limit is blinking but nothing else.
The Nikometer has not been active for a while but we managed to get it up and running and it says 366 V, isolation fault, to many cells dead and 15 cells dead.

Is there something to do about this except push it of a cliff ? I guess not.

Are there any zebra batteries avaliable in Norway, preferably in the south ?

According to  my  son, The normal driver of The Think, there are leaks from around both rear side windows.
We have  been trying today to remove one of the panels under the windows and have come  so far as to remove the screws under The trunk floor,  three screws at the B-pillar and the  safety  belt roll, the C-pillar panel but still it sitts  like glued. Which it just  might Bee.
Any suggestions of how to go further on is gladly accepted.

I took the heater apart to see if I could fix it.
Heres whats inside for you who has not done this operation:





If I measure the input resistance on the orange HV wires I find its about 700 Ohms, obviously too high.
Inside there are two heater elements both measuring about 12 Ohms which seems to be OK.

All cables are going in to the yellow plastics at the bottom of the heater and I figure there is something inside there which has gone wrong. The 10.000 dollar question is whats inside the plastic ?

Anybody knows ?

My water heater hss broken down but I have read here that there are rebuilt units avaliable.
My question is, can I drive the car without the heater connected (while I rebuild it) or will that cause some problems?

Hi Guys

I am new to this subforum but have driven a Think gen 2 for the past years and before that a gen 1 and bef.......

Anyway, I bought a Volt 2012 last week at an auction and I have read in the manual that in some models its possible to set the charging current in the touch screen. I cant figure out how to do that ?
Now my car as every option with navi, rear camera, BT, voice etc. and I figure they would not ad such a feature in a lesser equipped car.
So, is it possible to set the current and if so, how ?

This information I just read at the http://thinkcitypdx.com/blog/?p=4#comment-28 recommended by Fredric a few threads down.

"Before putting the key in the ignition and turning it on, and also before turning the key off, always turn the blower off. ........ Otherwise it is possible to permanently immobilize your car."

It appears if you turn the ignition switch off-on quickly with the fan running there is a fat chance you will blow the precharge circuit in the PCU.

There is a quite long and informative text about what happens.

I have never heard anything about this, did you ?

Last week my lever for the front hood opening broke again. I changed it shortly after buying the Think about 2 years ago. It had always been quite hard to pull and finally this took its toll on the lever.

I went to the Ford dealer and asked for a new one costing about SEK 200 the last time and got a little shock when he told me that this part was discontinued and there was no substitute. It seems Ford discontinues parts when they are about 15 years old and the last time this was used was in Mondeo -98.

Luckily it is possible to open the hood without this lever but it is not a quick fix.

Has anybody else had this problem ?
How did you solve it ?

Those are Readings from my Nicometer.
Could anyone suggest how I can get the Think to accept the charge is not 100% ?

Hi

A friend of mine is interrested in buying my "old"Think -99 for a possible modificatin to a handicap vehicle and needs to no how the gaspedal is designed. I know I can probably find this information somewhere  on the forum but I have little time to search.
Could some one please tell me how the gaspedal is designed ? What exactly is controlling the "throttle" (or speed) ? Is it just a potentiometer or is it something inherrited from Ford ?

Thanks

Never seen a racing striped Think before:


http://electriccarsreport.com/2014/03/renault-zoe-wins-rallye-monte-carlo-zenn/

This has now happened to me twize both after Think has been dischareged till 5-10% remaining energy. Both times after my son has been driving and set it to charge.

Heres the full story:
I came home on thursday afternoon with some 50% remaining energy and plugged it in. My son who sometimes use it unplugged it (dont know when) and drove off to a friend. He came back later with 5-10% remaing and plugged it in.
On friday morning I was going to take the Think to work as usual. Did not check the state of the "charging light", unplugged it and got in. Checked the energymeter and it was showing about 60% which seemed reasonable. Started the car and drove off.
After not too many meters I realize the "empty tank" light is lit. Energymeter is still at about 60%. Wierd !
Just to make sure nothing strange is going on I stopped the car. Turned it off and then back on again. This time the energymeter only goes to 5-10%. WTF !

I drove it back and plugged it in and the behavior then is as expected when plugging in. The ding-ding-ding is heard from inside and the charing light is turned on. Luckily we have several cars so I took another one to work.
Some hours later my son got out and could take the Think to school so it hade started to charge.

Like I said, this has happened twize. I asked my son to listen for the ding-ding-ding after plugging in but he said he always do. Also on thursday evening he confirmed it was heard.

Is this some behavior anyone else has seen ?

What causes it ?
Apparently when plugging in the second time (6-12 hours later) the charging starts normally.
I have told the son, next time he comes home with this low energy left he shall inform me so I can go out some hours later to check if charging has started.

What can be done about it ?
It's not a big problem but could be a symptom of something worse to come. I have been driving the car about 13000 km the past year and have never returned with such low energy.
Maybe the solution is to wait untill my son moves out of the house 

Not only can't you lock/unlock the car while charging, this morning I noticed another strange thing.
I stopped at work at one charge station and plugged the charger in at the 230V side. When I plugged the Think in it started to flash with the indicator lights !?
"Now what ?" I thought and unplugged it. The flashing stopped.
I re-plugged it and the flashing started again. I then noticed it was only the left side flashing so I unplugged again (to be able to unlock it) and soon found the indicator stalk was in the left position. I flipped it to neutral, locked the dorre and plugged it again. No flashing.

Interresting feature but I wonder why ?

I think I have read somewhere that someone installed a gasoline heater instead of the standard elektric. I had that setup, as standard, in my old Renault Express and it worked great.
Is there somewhere a build thread with pictures describing this ?
Anything in particular to think about ? Or is it just a straight change between electric to gas ? I assume the water temperature coming out of any of the heaters will be about the same, around 80-90°.

Heres a picture of where the VIN number is supposed to be according to the user manual, as you can see there is nothing there (windscreen bottom left corner).
Where should I be looking for it instead ?

I was under the dash trying to remove the GEM when I found this :



The yellow has been cut.
The yellow/green has been cut
and
the yellow/green has been twisted to connect to the yellow/red, not even crimped or soldered.

Anybody know what this fix is and why ?

Are there any concerns regarding fast charging the new Think with 16A ? Charger and/or battery (zebra) issues ?
The old Think sharing the charger with the old Renaults was a definite no-no regarding 16A charging since the charger eventually would go up in a puff of smoke. It happened to me once in my Express.

When I took down the relay box from under the ip I was quite surpriced  I could install the DTRL (day time running lights) for the front but not for the rear. The reason being that there where no Cables going to the relay holder.
Since I pass one tunnel on my way to work every day I need to turn the lights on manually even though I have the DTRL (front). Sometimes I forget the lights on during work and it does not seem to matter very much since the car goes down to Park lights when ignition is off but there is still a hassle to remember to turn the lights on when going in to the tunnel and to turn them off when leaving.

By following the description below you will have automatic lights when actually needed, i.e. when the car goes into a dark tunnel or similar. You will also have the dimmed position of the P-R-N-D-E lights and you will not have instrument lights as a reminder that the light is not really on.
This feature is seen on all (?) new cars in the EU and is supposed to give a better contrast for the brake lights if the rear lights are not always on. Can't say I was very fond of it when it started to show up here in Sweden where we have had mandatory driving lights front and rear since the late 70'ies but I am getting used to it.

I bought this: DC12V Automatic Headlight Light Control Sensor Car Light Modified Adjustable; http://www.ebay.com/itm/160986663398?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
for $9.95 including shipping. This unit will give you a light controlled switch with adjustable level setting, and a delay controll.
You could of course build the unit yourself but I doubt you can build it under the price you pay at eBay.

Here is the installation description :

Remove the bezel around the instrument, one screw in front of the igition key.

Unscrew the Three screws holding the light switch. start with the two red ones, then unscrew the blue once that will able you to bend down the bottom of the ip to better access the screw marked with green. It's a bit tight there.


Take out the light switch and unplug the connector. The cable is a little short but you can pull out another few cm's. Identify the Black, the Green/White and the Orange/Blue Cables. There is also an Orange/Black Cable, don't confuse them.


The Black is ground and goes to the minus of the board.
Green/White comes from the ignition and shall be used so that the lights goes on only when ignition is on. This one goes to the plus of the board.
Orange/Blue connects to the output of the board and goes to the park lights.

The easiest way to get rid of the Cable of the light sensor is just to push it under the bezel of the center consol.


After the entire cable has been pushed under you can pull it gently to minimize the lenght sticking out in the front and it will end up looking like this, barely visible and in a very fixed position :


Then all you have to do is to set the light level and the delay time.
I think a common time for cars is a delay of about 5 seconds.
I found that going to a parking garage is a good way to set the light level. There you can, if not a too busy garage go in and out as you please.

Good Luck !

I thought I have experienced this before but now I'm sure, it is not possible to lock/unlock the car by remote while charger is plugged in. Can anyone confirm this is not only my car ? Anyone knows why ? Is it the very large cloud of interferrence that almost makes it impossible to listen to radio while driving that also includes the 350MHz band while charging ?

Arriving home Wednesday evening  from a mini vacation I was going to move the Think to its normal charging position in the garden.
I left it last Friday with an SOC of about 40-50% some 5 days ago. It was still saying around 40 % charge. I started it as usual but when I put it in D instead of driving forwards it was rolling backwards.
I checked the dials and saw that the Power Limit was blinking. I restarted it and the SOC went to fully charged and then started dropping at a slow speed ending up at around 15% charge. Power Limit still blinking.

Is this what normally happens when the Zebra battery is (almost) completely discharged ? Or is there some other fault that started while the Think was resting ?

What should I do next ? Just plug in and charge as usual ? What will happen then ? Having to wait until the battery is hot again and how long will that take ?

Last week I started to hear a rattling noise close to my left ear while driving.
A few days later I was surprised by someyhing pushing on my head from the left. As you can see from the picture it was the panel at the seatbelt that have come loose at 2 out of 3 fasteners (snap-in).

I have tried to glue with superglue (3 second glue) but it did not work, I tried with some kind of plastics glue I had laying around and the last try was with Biltemas Plastic Weld. At least that stuck for 24 hourse before dropping on my head again.

Anyone out there that had a similar problem and can recomend a suitable glue ?
I will probably try silicon glue or PL400 if I dont get any better suggestions.