Hi Elmo! Have you put your extra charge coupling to the fast charge poles in the top of the elbox? Seen from the front, two most left poles? Connected that way I get correct readings and car system also noticed total charge.

Yesterday I had Partner in my workshop and there was glowing fault light and watering light. Lexia was give several warnings and the overcharge was something like 1200h and calculator was saying 1120h. I telecoding current from the net to 13A, after that I put car for charging some one minute and everything was ok; over charge limit was change to 870h.
Before I changed these things I was checking all the four memories and Lexia say's they were ok. Life is so unpredictable....

I also using Diagbox which is newer PSA program. It includes also Lexia and you can choose what you using.

About Checkelec, I found it very useful to see what state the charge is. Car charging outside in the pouring rain and program tell's me in the warm inside of the house voltages and currents. Skool, Steens! Excellent travail!

Best regards
Pera L

Gentlemens! And also Gentleladies... or similar...
Let say that just headlamps take 110W and averidge speed is in urban drive some 35km/h, then it makes three times for 110W i.e. 330Wh in 100km. And it's not all; DCDC losses are like 20% (from 120V to 12V) and then it makes 400Wh.
And it's not all; power steering takes 10A to 40A from 12V side. If averidge is 15A then small calculation gives 650Wh. I using power steering only parking situations.
Suddendly there is no 12kWh batteries in the car (Saxo, P106), instead less than 11kWh.

I have changed baclights to led's and driving DLR:s in the daytime. Still waiting good led's to headlamps with a good pattern and reasonable color temperature.

Best regards
Pera L

Hi lads!
About Proxia and Lexia; chinese are ok. In these days there comes also Diagbox where is also setup for Peugeot iOn, CZero and iMiev including batteries rerefnessing.
Proxia have some better testing for individual components but Lexia have some better other features like more fault announcements.

If you have Lexia and like to do watering charge, then you set up Maintenance Charge. After charging you do watering and then, from Lexia, you set Cancel the Charge. This will remove charge mode you have set. Some cases, like Equalisation Charge, it remove command and set Normal Charge instead. Equalisation Charge does not remove from the memory out of using Cancel the Charge. Instead in the next charge it will do Equalisation Charge until it goes end of this charging which takes some 3-4hours charge top of the normal higher current charge with 7A current for the batteries. Normally treshold for this smaller current charge is something like 214-218V depending batt temp sensor reading and then mentioned 7A. I use this charge for watering but interrupting it after some 2,5-3 hours.

If you setup a new parameter for the net current, then you must (after changing) put the car in charge for some two minutes. Then it takes new parameters in to the memory and also set the gas pedal position correctly. There is also some minor things but not so interesting.
Good idea is put the Ah meter (percentmeter) reading to the memory before changing net current. Otherwise you get some 20-25% reading for the meter, depending what you have saved in Lexiacomputer memory.

Initialisation Charge charges batteries with 10A current for some over 120Ah and it's intended for the new batteries which are totally empty.

About Lexia's error; many times it is because lack of the USB current from the laptop. Chinese LexiaDongle need more current than original, older, dongle.

I'd really like to hear what happends if you guy's set up a new net current with these instructions above.
Also I'd like to hear comments if some more clever guy (real pure propellerhat) than me can give more tips or hints.

I have this Bluetooth Dongle and it works perfectly: http://www.dx.com/p/vgate-icar-pro-bluetooth-3-0-obdii-obd2-elm327-adapter-460199#.Wcgx-Fn-jRY
T'was take long time to come but it is ok.

Best regards
Pera L

A small correction; not "overlassning", instead I mean overladdnung. Maybe S and D have changed their places in my keyboard... must be so...

Pera L

Hi Elmo! Must say first that Checelec is fantastic program an a big appalauses for Steens! Maybe we can think some compensation for him...

Just out of main subject; I think that 450Ah overlassning limit is maybe kind of fossile remain in the ECU from the time when PSA thinking also to put Pb batteries in these cars. But overall, 450Ah is excellent watering cap for the old NiCd flooded batteries. I have recommended 3500km or three times per 10000km here in Finland.

i have seen this 450Ah few times but when you change current from net like from 10A to 13A it change cap to 870Ah. If you not reset the watering light in a while then the faultylight turns also on (lightning symbol). Not sure is it then also change charging settings to basic faulty state and system thinks that the battery temperature is +20C. It means that the batteries not getting full charge if real temp is something like -10C or lower. Car still working as normal in driving.

Best regards
Pera L

Hej! As Elmo said, Lexia is maybe better. I have found Lexia very easy to use.
From Lexia you choose Saxo. Also you can do icon for display from C:\applic\exe\winlex.exe. Then it starts quicker as you not need to write VIN codes.
Some reasons for the problem:
1. There is not come 12V from OBD connector to the dongle and computer USB can not feed enough power to the dongle.
OBD pins are bend, no contact.
2. Lexia/PP2000 driver for dongle lookin it from wrong USB port. Need to be switch off power from the computer and start Lexia again when try another port. When computer has started and opened properly, then put dongle for car and USB port. Then start Lexia.
3. Computer have not real XP, instead some very late versions from it. Some cases there is not some older files what Lexia needs. Some W7 works, some not.
4. I had once a case that Lexia not started until traction batteries tension was over 80V.

Hope this help
Best regards
Pera L

Hmm. Ok. This must be solved, I'm gonna do some research and will back for this. I have one P106E -00.

Hälsningar
Pera L

Interesting! Have you tried with equalisation or init charge? After normal charge it need just 3 hours charge with one of those and the electrolyte level is on the max. It's not a matter about current, 5A init, 7A with equalisation or 8 to 10A with watering/maintenance charge. Effect is the same.
Must try to use 4,7kohm NTC instead of radiator NTC, maybe it's working better.

Berlingo with 3 extra batteries can do easily the job, voltage will rising somewhere to 247V and it means with 27 batteries 9,1V per battery and with three extra batteries (30pcs) 8,2V. In practise, you have 18kWh plus rising the voltage effect with the less current, some 20kWh usable battery capacity instead of 16kWh... if driving habits are the same. But car is so willing to go so when the traffic lights go to green...
Must say that in the wintertime is better use just two extra batteries in Berlingo because it's very hard to get batteries full when ambient is lower than -10C.

Best regards
Pera L

Hej! One or two extra batteries is ok for 106/Saxo. Not need to disconnected when doing watering charge because the system not watching the voltage then, just charging some three, four hours with smaller current.
In my P106E the charging system rises voltage for some 170-173V normally charging and it means 8,1-8,24V per battery if there is 21pcs. And because there is automatic balancing charge after some 10 to 20 normal charge it is ok.

About extra battery pack, I have in my mind some 4pcs 160Ah LiFePo4 connected to series and inverter, 12VDC/120VAC 1500W continuous, and bridge rectifier and some small value balancing resistor series. Then it's possible to empty them to the car batteries with reasonable time. Also pack is quite handy to take to the car if needed. It also means about 2kWh more electric. 230V inverter is suitable for Berlingo/Partner.
Bridge rectifiers like 1000V 50A are cheap and uses mostly switching diodes. Cheaper inverters produced square wave and switching diodes like it, very low heat emission. Serial resistor can be matched with 100V (20V difference) because car does not allow lower voltage. Normal 12V charger can be use to charge extra batteries. Also it's easy to build, doesn't need generations to get ready...

Best regards
Pera L

About NiCd flooded charger one possibility is charge two batteries in series and use this transformer http://www.partco.biz/verkkokauppa/product_info.php?cPath=2062_1106_1324&products_id=9530 with secondary connected parallel, then this rectifier http://www.partco.biz/verkkokauppa/product_info.php?cPath=2075_11_1013&products_id=10168 and then this power control http://www.dx.com/p/dc-6v-90v-15a-pwm-motor-speed-control-switch-governor-green-black-160094#.VQbVRVIvYqg and then this meter http://www.dx.com/p/mini-digital-blue-red-led-dc-current-meter-voltmeter-w-ampere-shunt-219592#.VQbWClIvYqg . Of course it needs fuses etc for it. I using this to charge one or two batteries on time but before using it I use biltemas charger http://www.biltema.fi/fi/Autoilu---MP/Sahko/Akkutyokalut-ja--tarvikkeet/Akkulaturi-ja-tehostin-12-V-15-A-37746/ which is excellent constant current charger up to 15A. It can not charge batteries full but almost. Rest with described self made system.
When I start charge unknown batteries I charge them first with 10A with some 10min, then discharging with some 5A few times to 5V so the batteries wake up especially if they have been lying somewhere for years.

Suddendly popping to my mind some unsend christmas presents which thing is not connected for chargers at all but anyway... good time of year for those... i'm getting too old...

Best regards
Pera L

By eating less, sitting out of electricity in the dark room under the candle light over Christmas and New Year I offer about 18000NOK. And no Christmas presents this year...

Regards
Pera L

After filtring I heating water up over +80C to get rid of carbondioxide. Good old distilled water is best but not very easy to get in these days. Surpricingly there reads in many cans "distilled water" but in real life just osmosecleaned. NiCd flooded does not like carbondioxide.

Regards
Pera L

Heps heijjaa! Sensor connector is in the engine room battery box, front left corner, downside. You can take out the connector (spring locked) and put a normal resistor for the connector, let say some 5-6kohm, and test the charging. I can not believe that the batteries really warming so much. If the charging works then there is faulty NTC. You can also measure sensor and if the temperature is like 0C then there must be about 7-8kohms resistance value.
Sensor it self is attached for the battery end plate inside of the box and easiest way is drill the hole, 10cm from the left front corner for the back and 10cm from bottom to up. Removing the water tank helps a lot, just one rubber rope. Then normal 3,3kohm standard NTC, 0,2W or more, and connect it to coming wires. Poles does not matter which way. Put some mass or soft glue for the NTC and hole and stick the NTC for battery end.
Standard NTC have the same resistance curve compared temperature as it is in original one.

BUT REMEMBER! The battery end is just 1cm from wall so do not drill hole in the battery.
A little comfort, Renault have same NTC problems than PSA. I can not understand why they get broke. Voltage between the poles is 5,5V max and resistance is 1,7kohm min meaning 0,02W power if I calculated right. Weird or What?

I think that the lithiums are not a problem; 56pcs multiply 5,6kg is just 314kg and the originals are 13,5kg x 27pcs makes 364kg. It does not matter about battery types if they are safety and installed safety way in case you happend to drive with roof on the ground, i.e. upside down.
Originally there is max payload something like 520kg in van so it's easy to get weights ok. I have done five seater and must say that there is really lot of work. Everything must be do as the factory do and also there must be windows on the sides (if no sliding door) so that the crashing situation peoples can get out from the back. Also you must prove that everything is made as factory made. Safety belts must be originals, then it's easier.
Interesting that there is possible to install also hook in the back, vertically load is max 75kg and max pulling force just over 1000kg. Not so huge trailer on the back...

Many times the temperature sensor in the engine room battery box is faulty and then normally it start showing too high temperature. I have installed 3,3kohm NTC in the battery end by drilling some 8mm hole in the box sidewall.
REMEMBER! The battery end is just about 1cm from the wall so... very short drill is good.
Good idea is check if the temp sensor reading and extra temp meter showing about the same temperature.