Conversion to lithium is of course one option but it will be a quite heavy investment. I would love to keep it rolling but since I mainly drive the Volt it will be an upgrade for my son and he will probably leave in the spring. Not sure what I will do but I will check what a conversion would cost.

 My son has been driving the Think for the last year or so. On thursday when he came home he parked it not so good so when I was going to move it just a bit some houres later it refused to start and the power limit is blinking but nothing else.
The Nikometer has not been active for a while but we managed to get it up and running and it says 366 V, isolation fault, to many cells dead and 15 cells dead.

Is there something to do about this except push it of a cliff ? I guess not.

Are there any zebra batteries avaliable in Norway, preferably in the south ?

Hey guys
Did you forget about me ?

Thanks guys, both pictures and the document  would  probably help.

According to  my  son, The normal driver of The Think, there are leaks from around both rear side windows.
We have  been trying today to remove one of the panels under the windows and have come  so far as to remove the screws under The trunk floor,  three screws at the B-pillar and the  safety  belt roll, the C-pillar panel but still it sitts  like glued. Which it just  might Bee.
Any suggestions of how to go further on is gladly accepted.

Considering the Zebra battery temperature should be 245°C I would say 4,8 is very low.
It will take a long time  "charging" to get it up to a temp where it will accept charging.
Leave it in for a couple of days and see what happens with the temperature.

Very interesting !
It looked very promising until the reprogram bit appeared. I have no access to such a tool.

Very interesting but it raises some questions:

Assuming X = time, what happens at about 10 h ?

"Current x100 (right)". If current is in mA it is around 100x100=10.000mA = 10A. OK ?
"Volt -300 (left)". If it said "Volt (left)" I would understand and the voltage would stop at 320V now it stops at 20V ?
"Batt temp -200 (left)" ? If the left side scale is valid the temperature varies between -90 to -60 °C unless it is in Kelvin ? Or is it the right side in which case the temp varies between 40-50 ° ?
"SOC (left)" stops at 100 (% ?) on the right side.

Maybe my brain does not work correctly today 

Sitat fra: sjokomelk på torsdag 04. februar 2016, klokken 21:18

Sitat fra: peet310 på torsdag 04. februar 2016, klokken 05:40
Har hatt det samme problemet selv. Jeg tok en liten stålfjær som jeg kappet til en passe lengde. Teipet den fast på innsiden av ladeluka, mellom hengselen og gummihetta. Fjæra må tilpasses så den ikke blir for lang eller være for kraftig for da vil den vises som åpen på displayet. Alternativet som Opel foreslo var å kjøpe en spesiell olje som var svindyr og smøre inn toppa med jevne mellomrom. Fjæra var nesten gratis og har fungert perfekt

Is it possible we could ha a picture of the miracle spring ? I'm having the same problem myself over winter. Yesterday (12°C) was the first day it would open without extra "motivation" ( a little bend by a finger nail).

Hans

Your message is the first in this entire four pages long thread that is not in English. Its not even in Norwegian but in google Norwegian and I cant understand close to anything of your reply.
I was hoping some of the locals would come in and help me out which is why I have waited a while with my answer. Maybe they dont understand either !?

Please come back with your answer in any other language, french, german, catalan but of course english is prefered.

Unless someone has a new pcb, the one that goes inside the bottom of the heater to sell, this is the end of the road.
As you can see from the picture I managed to work myself down through the polyurethane whit the help of a heat gun and a screwdriver. Without heat the PU is very tough to work but heat makes it more brittle and it is possible to remove it in small chunks. You have to take it easy with the heat though since if the PU starts to smoke it is toxic. Working outside can be recommended.

Another problem is that the PU adhere very good to the smd components on the pcb and at least one capacitor came out with a chunk of PU. I have it and knows where it was but I will probably have to remove all the PU to be able to get the pcb out to resolder. The fat cables laying alla over is not much of a help either.

I will most likely try to get hold of a fuel burning heater instead.

A new development, the big fuse is now blown which is probably why the heater has been totally inactive the last few months but it could not possibly be the cause of intermittent function before that.

Why does the fuse blow ?

Getting the tube out was really a bitch. Now i need a new piece of copper tubing.
Unfortunatly there is no bad connection so my hope is that the sensor is broken. Anyone have any info on how to check it for broken ?
I measured it with an ohmmeter and it is about 36kOhm in both directions which seem a little strange for something described as a zener diod thingy.

I have pictures to upload later.

Nikolay, I thought I you had an answer for me 

Yes, I will document as I go along.

My son is now very tired to go to university with random heating so this afternoon we decided to try to fix the mostly  disconnected temp sensor.
We took out the heater, dismantled it and managed to remove the screw/nut around the copper tube.
The copper tube can now be pushed up/down (with some force) or be twisted about 120 degrees but that is all. It can not be pulled up due to the bend in the lower part. It can not be pulled down since it then hits the heating tubes. If I cut it in between the heating tubes there is no way I could make a solid solder after fixing the intermittent connection.

It seems I have to remove both heating tubes before removing the copper tube, is it really that bad ?