Dear All,

To solve this issue I had to lay my hands on the correct Enerdel diagnostic software (Commtool) first (luckily I have all the service hardware available). The software I got 3 months ago giving me the opportunity to (digitally) look inside my battery. That was crucial determining the root cause of the issue.

When getting used and doing doing some readings with the Enerdel Comtool my eye caught a figure jumping like anything. Just check 160611 Analog 1_8" (in the attachment) first screenshot, column "Filt_Analog_04", then "Board_Temp_Filt" (almost at the bottom). The screenshot gives a value of -16 but I have seen it jumping between -9 and -30 degrees Celsius. Rather cold for the time of year (in June it was) and also compared to all the other RLEC readings. Would this be the reason....

After getting a RLEC board from the USA and sending my number 4 to Elbilmek for diagnosis was the next step. Unfortunately my RLEC board was beyond repair, happily Elbilmek was very helpful with correctly numbering a replacement board. Elbilmek was quick in returning the replacement board but it took me and the other two involved guys two months to set a date to get the new RLEC board in. Lowering the battery was done at the workshop of Goritzlehner in Hengelo where they have a bridge, materials and Th!nk knowledge). Replacement of the board was a piece of cake with all this equipment. The Commtool showed all readings were fine, RLEC 4 gave correct readings. The proof was my trip home, which is 130km away from Goritzlehner. Smmothly it went, no more shut downs, no more flashing temperature light and after the overnight charge the battery was back at a SOC of 105% and the Ampere meter at the bottom, as it was before.

So... I happily drive my Th!nk again!

Dear All,

It took me some time to get a deeper understanding of the Th!nk electronics (also because of the other issue with my car). Cutting a long story short, the above issue was caused by a defect DC/DC converter which also fused the 10 Amp HV fuse 4 on the fuse board. I was lucky to get a used converter from the USA (thinkparts4u.com), fuses are available in the US as well (mouser.com). After getting the PCU out and the new goodies in this issue was solved.

You'll find the other issue in the other thread 

Dear Go-carter, all,

Indeed my 12V DC/DC converter is gone. Before opening the PCU I was hoping to source a replacement converter, just in case mine is beyond repair. Anyone has a fully functional DC/DC converter for a GEN 2 (Li-Ion) Th!nk for sale?

Happy to hear any suggestions (also for repair).

Dear All,

This morning my Th!nk had an ugly surprise, I was already suspicious to see the traction battery only be charged for 80%. Since it had been freezing I wanted to defrost my windows so I started the car, this is what happened:
- Contact, clickerdiclick everything normal
- "Starting" first second all ok, cooling liquid pump starts humming, 12V light goes out, "car ready" light in console comes up.
- After one second I hear a subtile (relay) click near the passenger side, the cooling liquid pump stops working, the 12V light comes back on but the green "car ready" light stays on...
- Yes, it still drives but without the power steering operational and to the sound of the brake pump it is noticeable that indeed the 12V battery is not being charged.

What about the charging of the traction battery, almost similar story:
- power available light comes on, Clickerdiclick, all normal
- Pump starts humming, charging light comes on
- 1 second later pump stops, charging light goes out, clickerdiclick, disconnected.

And yes, when starting the car again the whole procedure repeats itself (so after the self test the wrench remains off till the relay clicks and the pump and the DC/DC stop working).

Anyone any clue?

Happy to hear your suggestions and fixes. Jaap

Dear All,

A few months ago I noticed that, after overnight charging, the battery (Enerdel Li-Ion) of my Th!nk was not completely charged. In the past (up to 40,000 kilometres) it charged up to around 105%, nowadays (50,000 km) only up to 100%. First I thought it was the battery deteriorating but it seems something different. Around that time I also caught a red flash for a fraction of a second on the dash, later I was able to determine that it was the red "high temperature' light in the dashboard which illuminated for a fraction of a second and that maybe twice a month, only after I took off with a fully charged battery.

Recently and by coincidence I had a look at the dashboard after it had fully charged. Only the green power available light was on (charging light off) though in the dashboard itself the red high temperature light was flashing erratic whilst the current meter was 3 dots (max) in the green (the main contactors were disengaged however).

I took the charging plug out (no clicking of the main contactors, it already had disengaged) and took the car for a ride. It "started" as usual but the red high temp kept on flashing irregular. (Note, enough cooling liquid, pump running and flow is there, no warm radiator, no fans running). I drove around for 5 minutes and then pressed the accelerator to the bottom. 5 seconds later the main contactors disengaged, the yellow power limit light flashed and the 12 volt battery charging light in the console illuminated. Oh dear... Switched off the car, waited a minute, started again and all came to life. The high temperature light started flashing its erratic tune soon after I hit the road. The whole shut down procedure happened exactly the same as soon as I withdrew a good amount of power from the battery.When it went below 90% no shut downs anymore and below 80% SOC also the high temp light stayed off.

Last night the car had an overnight charge and I took out the plug this morning but only used the car late in the afternoon (9 hours after I unplugged it). To my surprise the high temperature light started flashing its irregular way around a minute after I took of. No shut downs (I also was not in the mood for trying since I was on a road with hardly any escape route). Below 80% the high temp light remained off.

Today was a nice day, temperature around 20 degrees Celsius, no fan running cause of the heat, nothing out of the ordinary.

Anyone any clue what the issue is?

Thanks in advance, Jaap.

Dear Jesper, All

Do you know the outside dimensions of the sub-pack (see picture). The Th!nk Enerdel battery pack contains in total 8 of these sub-packs. I'm looking for a Li-Ion battery pack for my Sam Cree (2001 version). Since the Enerdel pack in my Th!nk is performing well (did 50,000 km till date) an Enerdel pack could be an option if I can fit it in.

Thanks for any help, Jaap.

Dear Excel,

Could you please describe in English where Selmer suggests to fill the gearbox with one litre of oil (sorry google translate ain't clear about this) and which oil specification does Selmer recommend?

Thanks! Jaap.

Dear Go-carter and HMA,

Thanks for the suggestions, indeed redoing the rubber profile did the trick. I used 3M 08509 glue (remains flexible and does not harden) and needed more then 250 ml (and had to remove only a teaspoon full).

Thanks again, Jaap.

Dear All,

I noticed a small amount of water has been able to end up in the storage area below the trunk cover. At the outer sides of both recesses is discolouration of the fabric visible and the moisture can be felt.

The rubber seal against the glass tailgate seems to be perfectly waterproof. I suspect the connection between the black plastic panels (where the rubber seal is mounted upon) and the (in my case yellow coloured) outer shell not being completely waterproof.

Anyone having the same issue? Of course anyone with a solution is most welcome to reply as well 

Tanks in advance! Jaap.

Dear Jens,

The EVSE has 2 fault indicators
- Power fault, illuminates in case of an incorrect ground (ground resistance of the house installation to high)
- Car link fault, Pilot signal not according to specs

The Power fault is not caused by the car but the electrical installation in the house. It seems though that the "Car link fault" occurs (since the EVSE works with the other car). In that case check https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772Basics for the shape (and possible faults) of the pilot signal (picture under "pilot states". With a simple oscilloscope connected to the pilot pin and the ground of the Lewden plug one can simply check the actual signal and compare it with the picture under pilot states.

I've done it a while ago to check if the Th!nk protocol was similar to the Mennekes protocol (which is the case). Check the pictures below.

Good luck, Jaap.

Ola!

Best give Enerdel a try

Enerdel, Inc (Li-Ion tractiebatterij)
8740 Hague Road Building 7
Indianapolis, IN 46256-1246
USA
Site: http://www.enerdel.com/

In Europe you may contact Thomasz Poznar, service director for Europe.
Mail: tomasz.poznar@enerdel.com

Hopefully he is able to get things done. Please not that this info is about one year old, things may have changed.

Good Luck! Jaap.

Hey Jens,

I don't know how far away you live from the Netherlands. If Hengelo (Overijssel) is within reach you could consider having it checked by Goritzlehner, they are specialized in Zebra Th!nks. Check http://www.goritzlehner.nl/think.php for more info.

I myself have the original Th!nk equipment but not the accompanying software (and no experience in using the stuff), so that is of no use at the moment.

Good Luck! Jaap.

I have 3 Fiels action bulletins with my car, number 10-106 10-108 and 10-109

Is field action 10-107 applicable for Zebra Th!nks only or is the Li-Ion Th!nk affected as well?

What is a good replacement 12 V battery? The original Varta B18, Optima Yellowcap or ?